Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles

Day1 - 5 Oct 2024

Distance (km): 24.2 km

Elevation gain/loss (m): 1494 / 721

The first day is the hardest. Started the day at around 7.45 just before daybreak. When they say the first day is hard, I did not realize that literally the first minute after leaving town would be an uphill! After two days of rain it was clear, with a beautiful sunrise:

At least it was not going to rain today.

The first major stop after 7.5km is a refuge called Orisson, the last place for water, bathrooms, food etc. It was a heart pounding climb getting up to here. They say this is the hardest part of the climb but that is a socially acceptable lie to let the unaware pilgrims proceed forth with the wrong idea that the rest of the climb is easy, which it certainly is not. If the truth were known, I would have simply turned around!

That is my blue pack on the left most bench!

After more heart pounding climbing, I reached Pic D’Orisson which is on a sheer cliff and has a status of the Virgin brought here by shepherds from Lourdes:

This was also my lunch break spot, where I ate the ubiquitous ham and cheese sandwich from Refuge Orisson. I also got talking to Josh from Michigan here. While eating lunch I saw someone come down a steep hill on a motorbike. It looked like a trick but presumably it is normal for a local to do that. The views were spectacular:

Just when you think you are going to die of thirst you come to Roland’s Spring:

After more climbing (thank God for switchbacks) finally reached the highest point of the route at Col Lopoeder at 1429m. 

Shortly after that, crossed the international border from France to Navarra: 

Not Spain but Navarra :). They are very regional here.

Yes it was mostly downhill from there, but it was hard because the path is very rocky and wet and had to walk the last km or so along a busy highway to reach the Albergue at Roncesvalles at around 6.30! It was too late to do laundry. So had my pilgrim meal and went to bed in a ‘cubicle’ with 4 bunk bed. The meal was excellent. They served soup, fried cod (the other option was pork chops) and sweet cornbread for dessert. Of course since this is Spain there were bottles of red wine to share.

Overall it was a hard day with heart rate routinely tracking over 160bpm (pretty high for my out of shape body) but the scenery was postcard perfect and that kept me going: